The Idle Man – Going Grey

Article posted up on theidleman.com – How To Style Grey Hair

By Min A. Lee

From red-carpet celebrities to social media influencers; grey haired men, whether dyed or natural, have proven that silver is a stylish alternative to the norm’ when it comes to creative colouring. Check out our complete guide on how to take going grey from old to bold in no time.

Read more about men’s grooming.

It’s morning, and all is well. A quick look in the mirror, you feel great then suddenly you see it… a grey strand. For those of us with dark hair, that little sprout of contrast is blatant. Is it stress? Is it aging? A combination of both perhaps?

Hard to believe, but your hair is actually white before the proteins in the strands are hit with a dose of melanin. It’s this relationship between keratin and melanocytes that give the colour you see everyday. Genetic factors are the main culprits that cause a reduction in melanocytes, hence that dreaded first sprinkle of grey.

Your DNA maps everything, including where you will see changes begin. Don’t panic. Grey isn’t viewed the same way as it was before, there’s no need to hide it. The colour has been boosted with a new, modern life thanks to celebrities and social media influencers.

Emil and Rasmus V. Albrechtsen of the most followed youtube channel in the hair industry, Slikhaar TV, show us the process of creating silver fox perfection from their own Denmark studio with master colourist Ulises Garcia.

Completely switch up your hairstyle or gracefully streak some smoky tones into growing natural greys. Hair is a great experimental field. The best colourists can take any hue and turn it into a seamless balayage. We definitely suggest having a professional to help you achieve exactly what you want as they will take into account your skin tone and natural hair.

This is important to know whether you should go for warmer or cooler shades. If your hair is quite dark, you’ll have to go through bleaching. This alone could cause a lot of breakage if not done properly. Some will even bleach in stages over time to prevent major damage from happening. Also, don’t be afraid to ask for help on maintaining your dye, silver and grey will be trickier.

Once you have the exact shade desired, it is time to consider the cut. The thickness of your hair, your face shape, how much effort you want to put into styling, all these factors are crucial. Fortunately, the Idle Man examined some classic hairstyles that will have you covered.

Read on for more going grey inspirations and maintenance guides for dyed or natural hair. Also, we examine the right wardrobe colours to elevate your silver.

For the full article click here to learn more styling tips, color preservation and shop grooming products at The Idle Man!

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The Idle Man – James Bond

Article up on theidleman.com – How To Dress Like James Bond

By Min A. Lee

An in-depth look into 007 reveals a complex protagonist with immaculate style. We examined a selection of Bond films for some of the best lessons in tailored menswear and accessories you’ll ever receive. You’ll be dressing like James Bond in no time!

Read more Men’s style guides.

While we are obsessed with the current James Bond, Daniel Craig, the iconic style that has become vital to bringing the literary character to life on the silver screen began with three men: Terence Young, Anthony Sinclair and Sean Connery.

TerenceYoung coached Connery into portraying the Bond that would set the bar since his first film Dr. No. Using his own bespoke tailor, Anthony Sinclair, Young felt everything worn by Bond was a huge proponent of the persona.

We asked Remmert van Braam, founder of the popular Bond Lifestyle, from the clothes to personality, what is it about James Bond that attracts men and women:

Bond always knows his stuff, from the wine he drinks to the car he drives, he knows what he wants and wants the best. This is something Bond creator Ian Fleming already put in the novels, naming specific brands and Bond’s sartorial preferences. Usually these are high-end, quality products. It might sound materialistic, but what men and women might admire in Bond is that even though he gets all the best things, he just as easily ruins bespoke suits, handmade shoes, or expensive vehicles and he doesn’t seem to care. Except of course when it’s his beloved Aston Martin DB5 (or his Bentley in the novels).

— Remmert van Braam, Bond Lifestyle

Clean silhouettes, easy shoulders, a slight flare to the jacket and movable fit define the Conduit Street tailor’s aesthetics. The British style embedded by Sinclair still translates across all of the 007 films to this day.

Let’s break down all of Bonds’ main looks, and how to achieve them.

The Tuxedo

Tuxedos appear heavily throughout the Bond movies. It’s important to remember, tuxedos are notably different from suits:

  • Suits can be worn anytime of the day, while formal tuxedos are for evening.
  • Color plays a role; tuxedos are usually black or extremely dark blue. Suits can be lighter shades.
  • Traditionally tuxedos will contain satin: the lapels, buttons, trimming down the trouser legs, while suits don’t.
  • The jacket lapels themselves are different. You won’t see tuxedos with notched lapels.
  • Tuxedos should have a bow tie versus wearing casual neck piece for suits.

Whenever we think of ‘Dr. No’, the first scene that comes to mind is that epic moment when through a cloud of cigarette smoke, Connery introduces himself as, Bond. James Bond. He was wearing a Sinclair designed tuxedo in midnight blue with a Lanvin shirt, these moments were the start of many.

The Grey Suit

Throughout the Connery era, Sinclair’s clean aesthetics were at the forefront. A popular style was his glen check three-piece suit in Goldfinger, featuring narrow lapels, ticket pocket along with the slip of a handkerchief and notched lapel waist coat.

Here’s Roger Moore working a grey, chalk stripe jacket with a peaked lapel. What’s the difference between pinstripes and chalk stripes? The latter is set wider, and sewn at an angle to mimic a tailor’s chalk line.

As time progressed, Brioni dressed Pierce Brosnan in neutral, but with a wider lapel with a higher gorge and no waist coat. The pleated trousers of Sinclair disappeared for slimmer cuts with darting.

Brioni was switched out for Tom Ford by “Quantum Of Solace.” While Craig did wear the Italian brand for one movie, a change in costume designer also influenced the change to Ford. Though there is variation between the designers of Bond’s suits, the fact remains from Sinclair to the more modern take we see now—grey is timeless.

READ THE FULL ARTICLE HERE AND SHOP THE IDLE MAN – TOP MENSWEAR DESTINATION!

The Idle Man -12 Best Watches Under £100

Fashion article up on theidleman.com – The 12 Best Watches Under £100 – Min A. Lee

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“A symbol of identity and status, watches provide major style flexibility, but can come with hefty price-tags. We rounded up the 12 best men’s watches under £100 to keep you looking sharp.

Check out more from our Men’s Style Guides here.

Previously The Idle Man brought to you a brief history on men’s watches and finds under £500. Overall, what is it about watches that has survived decades of technological advances?

It comes down to symbolism. Watches are common gifts for major achievements, whether it be a company promotion or a special birthday, think “coming of age.” They have become heirlooms to many, holding special memories as they are passed down through the family tree. It’s rather hard to pass down a tablet or apple watch. Technology doesn’t have the same longevity. Watches cross generational gaps. There’s a huge possibility you’ll treasure the same watch company that your Grandpa did.

No matter how the economy dips, watches retain value. The amount of time and craftsmanship that goes into creating a single mechanical dial pushes this value higher. Take a look at this in-depth video by Hodinkee, founded by watch connoisseur Benjamin Clymer, exploring Seiko manufacturers.

Now let’s take a look at the money aspect. Patek Philippe, need we say more? Who wouldn’t lust for a watch from the famous Swiss manufacturer, but we’re talking 5 figures at the very least. That is to be expected from a design house that has supplied royal families.

Style has gone far beyond dressing head-to-toe high end brands. Fashion moves quickly. This constant change has impacted how we shop. Many find themselves mixing high to low or favouring mid-tier designers.”

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View the video and read the entire article containing the best mens watches, more style tips and shop for all your menswear needs at theidleman.com

 

Fashion Writing – Tommy Hilfiger

Article Written For Tommy Hilfiger SS 2015 Collection For Print Magazine

Since 1985, Tommy Hilfiger has been building his internationally recognized lifestyle brand into what we know it as today.  Sometimes collections feel very prep-school cool, but then we enter the spring and summer 2015 designs and we’ve got a funky mix of rocker vibes with his always clean lines, which is definitely pushing for notches above cool now.  With some design throwbacks that reminisce more of the 60s and 70s eras of music, Hilfiger goes for something a bit darker, a bit more sharp than before and as what he described his muse for this collection as—”an updated cue from the free-spirited festival gals of today.”

Expert tailoring is never lost on Hilfiger’s work, but we love the deep, darker reds, splashes of black and blue in all its star-spangled glory.  Stars were everywhere during this show, from the famous faces who walked for it to the all over starry prints on several of the designs.  Despite the rather patriotic palette, Hilfiger does find ways to toss in some purple, green and yellow to balance out the other primaries.

Producing striped pattern looks that feel very laid back and just right for a music festival, everything became a mix of how we’ve always viewed Tommy Hilfiger’s clothing and the youthful, free spirited energy of summer festival trends.  Despite somewhat appearing as opposites in a sense, Hilfiger presented them in a very funky and very cool harmony.

If you told us bohemian, music styles could work with preppier, tailored tops and bottoms we would have disagreed, but we just got school by one of America’s most iconic designers.

Audrey Magazine – Interview With KUMANN’S Yoo Hye Jin

Article Written For Audrey Magazine

Inside South Korean Label KUMANN YOO HYE JIN by Min A. Lee

“Futuristic Folklore” is a befitting title to understanding HyeJin Yoo’s perspectives on spring fashion with her presentation for KUMANN YOO HYE JIN 2015.  This isn’t a collection for those who prefer safer, ready-to-wear lines. This is about appreciating symbolism, engineering and a bit of mathematics.  Beauty is found within the heavily structured looks with a nod towards today’s science fiction animation and technology printed on pastel jacquards, organzas and cottons.  Yes, those are definitely spaceships.  If you aren’t into sci-fi, she has equally interesting and provoking designs in neutral to bright shades.

Yoo works endlessly to create masterpieces that are becoming the future we can expect from the Kumann studio, while she continues to build stability for the label.  We knew viewing her clothing would bring thoughtful discussion, so we reached out to learn more about this designer that expertly molds together so many contrasting ideas into a well-balanced and fluid collection.

Audrey Magazine: When you became the head of Kumann, how did you want to redefine the label, and how do feel that style translates into your current SS 2015 collection?

HyeJin Yoo: Kumann is the name originated from the early studio of the company. When I decided to start working on the label, I felt that I needed to reconsider the story of the studio, and its original value and identity. I have been re-identifying the brand’s characters in constructive design and original graphic patterns, which are based on different concepts of seasonal collections. Particularly, for spring and summer 2015, I interpret the concept of the future and folklore with specific color arrangements and computer-embroidered spaceship images made in 3D graphics.

AM: With the SS 2015 concept of “Futuristic Folklore,” have you always had an interest in those patterns and sci-fi animation?  What inspired you to put the two concepts together as one?

HJY: Sci-fi movies and ideas of cyborgs have been greatly influencing my ideas. I am directing the brand as a high-end boutique, but I do love to mix it up with images and symbols from sub-culture. I have also been very much interested in the theoretical ideas of time and space in a parallel universe, and in Buddhism. Basically, I think that people are very accustomed to a dichotomous way of thinking. Dualism affects our perceptions and languages by dividing things in the extreme, but I think that any of those two extremes could be blended just like other previous concepts, ‘Nostalgic Future’ and ‘Urban Shamanist’.

AM: What sort of emotions do you hope to evoke for viewers and wearers of your designs?

HJY: I am drawing a woman who wears uniqueness and originality of her own. I hope both viewers and wearers have exceptional experiences and at the same time will feel assertive and happy. – See the entire interview and more at: http://audreymagazine.com/inside-south-korean-label-kumann-yoo-hye-jin/#sthash.osq7wgVB.dpuf

 

Audrey Magazine – Designer Kim Tae-hoon

To see more about Kim and images from his collections on Audrey Magazine, click here.

From Audrey: South Korean Womenswear Line, FREAKS By Designer Tae-Hoon Kim – by Min A. Lee

For those of you keeping up with all the street styles coming out of Asia, we found a great designer with clothing accessible to stateside shopping fanatics! Meet Tae-Hoon Kim. Since 2000, he has been curating and perfecting his womenswear line, Freaks.

Working to find a way to represent the beauty of combining masculine and feminine balance, Kim shared with Audrey, “My original designs have been very straight forward and neutral feeling, but this collection for 2015 summer season has deployed more smoothly according to the trend in South Korea.”

When looking at the collection as a whole, you can see how his brand’s characteristics of “asymmetrical organization, aesthetic draping, mathematical crossing and structural formality” come into play.  Fit for navigating a bustling, modern lifestyle, we can visualize any piece of Kim’s collection on the fashionable streets of New York City and Seoul.  When we asked about the main influences behind his work, Kim explained, “It seems I had been looking for many buildings and works of installation and objects of the everyday surroundings before [a] sample design is planned.  I discover carefully and observe these things, and express it as a wearable contemporary character fashion.”

With several pieces available on a newly launched Etsy storefront, it’s easy to get your hands on the South Korean brand.  We picked out our favorite looks from their warm, summery tones and variety in lengths and fabrics.  There’s a nice range of form fitting cuts to dresses easy to move and stay cool in.  You can find more of Kim’s work here along with several look books and fashion films. – See more at: http://audreymagazine.com/south-korean-womenswear-line-freaks-by-designer-tae-hoon-kim/#sthash.Dn1oqhgj.dpuf

Image From Audrey Magazine Feature + Tae-hoon Kim

 

 

Fashion Writing – Deola + Clan

Article For Magazine Done Last Year

A Fashion Week Debut Full Of Luxurious Textiles, Plus A Mix Of Bright Hues & Playful Youthfulness – Min A. Lee

Deola Sagoe and Clan (which is made up of Sagoe’s daughters Teni, Tiwa an Aba) successfully presented their New York Fashion Week debut collections full of color, youth and luxurious textiles.  Looking at the designs of Sagoe one can see how she draws upon Nigeria in a lovely mix tradition and current aesthetics in the fashion world.  Her line is filled of body conscious cuts with conversation-starting details from cut-out patterns to an iridescent sheen for shifting colors and then adding in echoes of Nigerian fabric patterns, all brought beautifully onto the main stages of New York.  We can see why Deola Sagoe is gaining world-wide notoriety and praise.

As we watched the models glide towards us, we could feel the bold presence in her designs—they truly speak for themselves.  This line is not meant to be taken lightly, but worn for that occasion you want to stand out.  Even in the neutral looks there are features that instantly pop out at viewers.  We hope to see more of Sagoe at the coming fashion week industry events and anticipate her future collections.

CLAN

CLAN interests us with their take on clothing collection availability.  While nearly all designers offer two main collections, one for fall/winter and one for spring/summer, CLAN decided to create truly timeless designs in the sense that “these pieces will be available all year round in chosen variations and upon personal requests,” explained Teni Sagoe.

While viewing the debut, we felt an immediate sense of playful, youth with a bit of urban wear appeal.  Amping up the paints with open-mesh appeal, draping and mixed-media was a fresh take for the on-going trend.  One of our favorites was a phonetic spelling for laid back (laid-back) splashed across a silky top.

A perfect descriptor for parts of the CLAN collection with its easy-to-wear designs and casual coolness.  There’s even a comfort appeal to the more complicated designs we appreciate.   When it comes to fashion, we are always on the hunt for compelling designs with functionality.

Fashion Writing – Costello Tagliapietra

Article Written For A Review Of Costello Tagliapietra’s S/S2015 Collection

Exploring The Lovely Oceanic Blues Of Fashion House Favorite: Costello Tagliapietra – Min A. Lee 

Viewing each style from Costello Tagliapietra’s spring and summer 2015 collection is transitioning down through the layers of the ocean.  Beginning with the sometimes tumultuous clouds and winds that can create such beautiful stormy hues that slice through an otherwise golden palette.  How fitting the fabrics picked by the designers move like the wind and water and sometimes appear like a stormy horizon on some.  A perfect mix of emotion and grace for those who are a bit more on the serious side of wardrobe preferences because not everyone is into frills and flounces.

Just as the water turns into a crystal, clear blue, as does the flow of the collection to longer lengths of the hue while keeping water-like properties that move around the body in seamless waves.  Despite the form fitting cuts that emphasize natural waistlines, comfort is definitely key. These aren’t garments that you’ll constantly be adjusting and pulling on to keep its shape.  There’s something completely natural about the way they fall even in standing positions.

As the ocean becomes deeper and darker with tinges of green to black, the level of mystery arises. There’s almost a more quiet quality to the depths that aren’t pushed about by winds and the moon’s gravitational tug-of-war.  In the darkness you have to look closely to see the subtle details, the same goes for the design duo’s work.  At first glance the dresses seem simple, but look closer and one can see beautiful pleating to create small cascades, silky textures with gauzy overlays, contrast piping and lining for added contour and emphasis, and our favorite—their signature plaids but with an open weave.  Dark and mysterious? Yes, definitely…then mix it with the strong force of attraction these looks imbue and you are set for date night.

The gradient of hues in the collection complement every skin tone and hair color, which isn’t easy to come by because it can be difficult matching warm and cool to the right color—you don’t have to worry, they’re expansive line offers the ability to create looks depending on the wearer’s desire.  These are clothes meant to make any woman feel stunning.  Even the more sportier option with its silky bomber jacket and body conscious skirt still initiates a striking aura that is found in every collection produced thus far.  If you are looking for pieces to refresh your wardrobe for next spring put Costello Tagliapietra high on your wish list, they’re definitely up there on ours.

Fashion Writing – Teddy Stratford Shirts & Audrey Magazine

Article written for Audrey Magazine, read the full piece here.

How the Police of Bangkok Inspired a New York City Dress Shirt Company

 

Normally, National Public Radio (NPR) is considered at the forefront of distributing news and cultural programming, not as a media outlet for fashion. But one podcast is beginning to change how the global fashion industry is viewed.  Rather than a constant stream of modern trends and red carpet celebrity drama, which at times feels more like a reality television show, NPR host Jacki Lyden was given the task of presenting the topic in a way that will appeal to listeners.

Regarding her new production, she explained, “We have to do it as anthropology—and more like a salon of the air.  That’s where public radio audiences would come in—in the amazing cultural context of fashion, and as business, diversity, history, entertainment and social commentary.”  Hence, The Seams: Clothing Is Our Common Thread: In Every Stitch, A Story was born, and from its recent beginnings Lyden has used the world as a palette and shared stories that force us to think about fashion as a complex, yet engaging academic conversation instead of an image roll of pretty outfits.

Lyden’s first episode on theseams.org pulled us into the streets of Bangkok with entrepreneur Bryan Davis, who credits his extreme fascination with the police attire of the city as an influential obsession that would lead him on a successful kickstarter campaign for a patented dress shirt.

“I was reading about the police department, so I was particularly tuned into the police, and I noticed the police had these awesome uniforms, these really close fitting, sharp uniforms,” Davis states during the recording.

During a traffic stop, Davis found an opportune moment to question the officer where the uniform was from.

Luckily, instead of a ticket, he received an address for a local tailor, “My friend and I walk in to the tailor’s…she’s got to translate.  But what’s interesting in Bangkok is that the police all get their uniforms completely custom made.  This tailor was measuring me up asking, ‘Do you want cuffs on these pants,’ and all this stuff and then he got to a point where my friend couldn’t translate she didn’t know the word apparently for zipper…I want a zipper I’ve never seen that before!”

Taking inspiration from the uniform, Davis enlisted the partnership of master tailor Carl Goldberg and launched the company Teddy Stratford.  Using campaign money, the “Zip Fit Shirt” was released featuring a zipper hidden under a faux button placket to create a slim, stream-lined look.  In order to maintain the high quality that can be easily lost with mass production, all shirts are hand made in New York City with a retail price of approximately $185.

This experience shows us how every piece of clothing we have carries with it some anthropological and/or sociological aspect.  Clothing isn’t only just a reflection of individualism, but part of a giant industry that battles financial and ethical concerns along the way, which is what Lyden’s series for NPR hopes to address to a growing consumership.  As the podcast advances, we aim to share with you more compelling features, and if you are interested in listening in, visit theseams.org to check out the latest aired episodes. – See more at: http://audreymagazine.com/how-the-police-of-bangkok-inspired-a-new-york-city-dress-shirt-company/#sthash.GYQQbp54.dpuf

Fashion Article – Iikonee

Fashion Article Written For Feature Brand – Iikonee

For those of us living metropolitan lives, caught in the constant daily movements between coffee and career, Iikonee lets us slow down and learn an appreciation for simplicity.  Clothing becomes a reflection of our lives, and there is beautiful classicism to be found within the line’s Spring & Summer 2015 looks.  Vivid white offset by classic navy and black make up the entire architecturally inspired collection, but with comfort and ease.  Spring usually entails overcrowded patterns and bright, summery palettes, but Iikonee keeps to traditional minimalist expectations.

  • Most minimalist designs tend to veer away from girly flirtation, but there is still a perfect dose of feminine appeal with curve flattering shapes and shorter lengths.  While on trend with the midi-skirt and contemporary boxy cuts for their available tops, the ability to wear these pieces over several years is not lost, especially as fads come back just as much as they disperse.  If you’re seeking out a revamp for your career wardrobe and want to move away from the usual suiting options, Iikonee should be at the top of your list.